What to see around
Flores Apartment
Príncipe Real is like the older, sophisticated sister to the more famous, boho-chic Bairro Alto, filled with trendy restaurants, grand mansions, tiny antique shops, Moorish kiosks, and miniature gardens. This neighborhood is located between one of the best viewing platforms in the city, the Miradouro São Pedro de Alcântara, and the charming neighborhood of São Bento, and it is known for its vibrant LGBT scene, sophisticated shopping areas and vintage art galleries where you can inhale the artistic spirit of Lisbon. Going on your right when you leave the building, you can find the Praça das Flores and Sao Bento area, that displays several antiques shops, a huge choice in terms of cafés and restaurants (see eating and drinking around the Flores apartment) and the following sightseeing and cultural offer:
PRAÇA DAS FLORES
This romantic little square, with its small garden, has always been one of the city’s quietest corners but is now also one of its trendiest. It remains as calm as ever, with benches surrounding a small fountain shaded by trees, but now also has several spots for eating and drinking.
The first one you see is an old kiosk, now restored, but there are also small café terraces, and several other eateries down Rua Nova da Piedade towards São Bento Palace (see below for eating and drinking around the apartment).
CASA MUSEU AMÁLIA RODRIGUES
Amália Rodrigues is one of Portugal's biggest cultural icons, and the house where she lived for most of her life was turned into a museum following her death in 1999. She was a Fado diva who gained worldwide fame and acclaim, and her fans now make the pilgrimage to the museum to see over 30,000 of her personal items, including her glitzy outfits, portraits, awards, and recordings in a 30-minute tour.
www.amaliarodrigues.pt
PALÁCIO DE S. BENTO (PARLIMENT)
A 16th-century monastery was turned into this imposing neoclassical palace in 1834, which is now Portugal's parliament.
The exterior staircase is flanked by two lions, and on the main façade are four female allegorical statues -- "Prudence," "Justice," "Strength" and "Temperance." The sculptures in the tympanum represent, among others, areas such as Industry and Trade.
The interior opens only during temporary exhibitions and on the last Saturday of each month, for free guided tours by appointment, which also give access to the garden.
The garden, embellished with flower beds and statues, also has Palacete de São Bento in the back, the mansion that is the Prime Minister's official residence. The building is not open to the public, but the garden opens on Sundays for free visits (accessed through Rua da Imprensa à Estrela). Built in 1877, the mansion's first resident was dictator António de Oliveira Salazar in 1938, and the garden exhibits several pieces of art, from artists such as Leopoldo de Almeida (sculptor of the Discoveries Monument), João Cutileiro, and Vhils, who created a tribute to the Carnation Revolution of April 25th, 1974.
If you climb the street on left hand when leaving the building, you go towards the Principe Real area, that is also a Meca for antiques or design shoppers, and offers an almost embarrassing amount of possible gastronomic experiences, (see eating and drinking around the Flores apartment) and the following sightseeing and cultural offer:
MIRADOURO S. PEDRO DE ALCÃNTARA
Technically located just south of Príncipe Real, the Miradouro São Pedro de Alcântara should be at the top of your must-see list since it offers plenty of stunning views, especially at sunset. From here you will be able to see the Castle of São Jorge, Sé Catedral, and the Tagus river, as well as all the ancient 18th century buildings of Avenida da Liberdade. The Miradouro São Pedro de Alcântara is a picture-perfect viewing platform, which can be enjoyed directly after riding the Gloria tram up a narrow and cobbled side street.
JARDIM PRÍNCIPE REAL
The Jardim do Príncipe Real is a little romantic square and garden tucked away in the neighborhood’s main street. The principal attraction of this garden is its gigantic cedar tree, which offers a lovely shade for tired explorers and elderly locals who enjoy spending lots of time outside and observing passersby. There is a small café with outdoor seating, and two kiosks serving refreshments, one of which is an old restored pink Lisbon kiosk from the early 18th century, where Lisbon’s classic refreshments—such as horchata with almonds, mazagran made from coffee, spleenwort, and Port wine—are being served. The Jardim do Príncipe Real also becomes a popular spot on Saturdays when the local organic farmer’s market takes place.
19th CENTURY PATRIARCHAL RESERVOIR
One of Príncipe Real’s hidden landmarks is the underground, mid-19th century Patriarchal Reservoir, now part of the Water Museum system, located below the Jardim do Príncipe Real. It was the second water tank to be built in the city, after the Mãe d’Agua reservoir, and was once powered by the historical Águas Livres Aqueduct. These days it opens on Saturdays, with the exception of holidays, so visitors can see this hidden treasure, and entrance only costs €2.
BOTANICAL GARDENS AND
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
The Natural History Museum hosts exhibits on the history of chemistry and mathematics and presents collections of dinosaur fossils and geological excavations, including rocks and minerals from various sites across the world. The museum has some interesting interactive displays, such as the solar system room with scientific displays of Pangea, cells, and history of the Earth. The surrounding Botanical Garden is the oldest garden in Portugal, with an eerie but exciting atmosphere. It is a good place for botany lovers, and all those who look for a calm and chilled space in the sweltering summer heat. The garden never gets too crowded, and you can enjoy walking the paths and looking at the enormous variety of trees and plants.
Where to eat and drink around the Flores apartment, our choices
In Principe Real there are so many restaurants and cafés, that it would be impossible to make them all fit here. We have just selected a bunch of our favorite spots in the different zones that are close to the building. We have chosen them because of the quality of food and/or the special decoration or location.
PRAÇA DAS FLORES AND SAO BENTO AREA
The kiosk (Quiosque Lisboa) of Praça das Flores A century-old kiosk serving Lisbon's traditional refreshments. This is the smallest of the traditional kiosks, covered in white marble and topped with an eggplant-colored dome.
Pau de Canela Café The tables outside are almost always full, but that's because this is one of the most pleasant cafés in the city, surrounded by the tranquility of Praça das Flores. Whether you just want a drink, coffee, pastry, or go for a quick meal of traditional Portuguese dishes, you'll find crowds of all ages looking out to the garden. On Sunday mornings it serves a brunch buffet.
Organic Pizzeria In Bocca al Lupo It offers 100% organic pizza prepared in a wood oven. All the toppings are Portuguese and Italian, brought directly from producers. Among the several choices are vegetarian and vegan pizzas, and to accompany them there are organic Portuguese wines and craft beers.
Copenhagen Coffee Lab This coffee shop, just around the corner from Praça das Flores, is meant to be a lab dedicated to the various ways of preparing and serving coffee, while the customer sits reading, studying, at the computer using the free wi-fi, or simply relaxing. It offers a small meeting room, also allowing you to work as you enjoy a cup of coffee. In addition to the variety of coffee, it also serves tea and hot chocolate, which may accompany a piece of cake or sandwich. The concept arrived from Copenhagen, and that’s where the roasted coffee beans come from. The space’s minimalist décor also derives from Nordic inspiration. Those who prefer to enjoy their coffee at home, there’s coffee to go.
Tease It started as just a cupcake shop, but there are now other sweet temptations to accompany a cup of tea, and also lunches and light meals. It’s found right around the corner from Praça das Flores, and features a minimalist interior with a welcoming atmosphere.
Nannarella Ice Cream Shop Between Praça das Flores and São Bento Palace is this artisanal ice cream shop which is also a “lab” for the Italian owner. That’s because he experiments with different flavors every day, mixing fresh local products and others imported from Italy, to offer new flavors daily. They’re served Roman-style, using a spatula instead of a scoop, in a cup or cone, with as many flavors as you like. Every ice cream is all-natural, with no artificial colorings or preservatives, and comes with optional whipped cream on top. There’s no place to sit in the blue-and-yellow interior, which only has space for the counter, so there’s always a line out the door.
Pizza di Nanna From the same Italian owner of Nannarella Ice Shop, this pizzeria on the go offers a real Italian pizza experience. You can grab your slice (technically, your piece, since pizzas are not round shaped, but squared, and you buy it by weight) and enjoy it sitting in the nearby gardens of Sao Bento, just crossing the street from the shop.
PRINCIPE REAL AREA
Pavilhão Chinês At first glance, you may feel like you’ve walked into a museum after entering the Pavilhão Chinês, but this is maybe the most unique bar in the city. All around the walls are shelves and cabinets filled with souvenirs and knick-knacks spanning three centuries worth of history, from figurines and dolls to airplanes and art pieces and plenty in between. It’s certainly a hodgepodge of mementos and memories on display around tables, armchairs, and billiards tables, a setting that has been described as confusing and delightful to visitors all at the same time, and the drinks make a positive impression as well.
Restaurante Terra A vegetarian restaurant with a pleasant terrace in the back and a big buffet offer.
Pizza a pezzi Italian pizza on the go. You can enjoy it sitting in the Principe Real Park.
Cevicheria A giant octopus (made of sponge) hanging from the ceiling draws the attention of passers-by on the street, and it’s an indication of what’s served inside -- ceviche. This traditional Peruvian dish made of raw fish (salmon, octopus or shrimp) cured in lemon or lime juice, also has a Portuguese version here -- with cod. Alternatively, there are tacos and empanadas, and even a tasting menu so you may try several dishes. To wash it all down, there’s pisco sour, a drink also from Peru. It does not accept reservations.
Zero zero All the ingredients used here are from Italy, but the atmosphere is very Lisbon, as it faces one of the city’s most pleasant green spaces, the Botanical Garden. The small patio in the back opens onto the garden’s vegetation, which can also be seen from the interior. The dining room is decorated with wood and marble, with a wall covered with logs. The specialty is whole-wheat pizza, prepared in a rotating oak-wood oven, but there are also pastas and salads. If you want to take the Italian cheeses and meats home, you may choose from the small display at the entrance, where there is also a bar serving Prosecco and cocktails.