What to see around
Alfama Appartments

The Alfama building with its four apartments Ophiussa, Ulysses, Olissipona and Tágides, is located in the heart of Lisbon: the Alfama (pronounced al-fa-ma) is Lisbon’s Moorish district: a medina-like neighbourhood of narrow and maze-like streets at the foot of the Castelo de São Jorge, the city’s medieval castle. Alfama comes from the Arabic name al-hammâ, which means “City of the Baths”. It is the oldest and one of the most typical neighbourhoods in Lisbon. During the Moorish occupation (711-1147), Alfama was the city of Lisbon, progressively spreading to the Baixa. It was inhabited by fishermen and the lower classes. Most buildings survived the 1755 earthquake, unlike those in the Baixa district. There is simply too much too do and see in this area to be thoroughly described, but we have selected the most relevant spots and attractions that follow:

THE SÉ (CATHEDRAL)

Halfway up a long, steep hill heading to the castle, the Sé is Lisbon’s ancient cathedral.

 It’s a large and impressive Romanesque structure dated from the foundation of Portugal in the 12th century. It was commissioned by Dom Afonso Henriques, the founder and first king to call himself “King of Portugal”.

The great rose window and twin towers form a simple façade. Inside, the Gothic cloister was built between the 13th and 14th centuries. Excavations under the cloister have revealed the remains of a 6th century Roman house and Moorish public buildings. The main chapel was modified in the 18th century to favour a Baroque style.

The Catholic church survived the 1755 earthquake. It lost its south tower; the cloister and main chapel, including royal tombs, were also destroyed. The church was restored quickly in the years that followed but not very carefully. In the first half of the 20th century, when the Sé was again restored there was a return to the original medieval style, removing most of the Rococo decor.

Entry to the Sé cathedral is free. However, you have to pay to visit the cloister tombs and the Baroque Treasury, which is a small museum of treasures, including antique silver, ecclesiastical costumes, manuscripts and relics of Saint Vincent.

MIRADOURO DE SANTA LUZIA

Considered one of the most beautiful viewpoints in Lisbon, the Miradouro de Santa Luzia offers amazing views over the Alfama neighbourhood and the river. Don’t miss the blue-and-white azulejos (tile panels), depicting the Terreiro do Paço before the great earthquake of 1755.

 MIRADOURO DAS PORTAS DO SOL

One of Lisbon’s iconic viewpoints, and also one of the most photographed, the viewpoint from Portas do Sol in Alfama offers wide open vistas over the coloured buildings, the Panteão (Pantheon), and the River Tejo with the cruise ship terminals.

CASTELO DE SAO JORGE

Located on the highest of Lisbon’s seven hills, the Castelo de São Jorge is the city’s most visited tourist site, and perhaps its most impressive one, if not for the building itself at least for its position offering the best views of Lisbon and the River Tejo.

 The castle occupies the site of the former Moorish castle dating from the 10th century. After four centuries of Moorish occupation, it was conquered in 1147 by the crusaders led by Dom Afonso Henriques, the founder and first king to call himself “King of Portugal”.

 In the following centuries, the Castelo de São Jorge grew in importance with the Portuguese kings taking up residence within the walls of the old Moorish palace known as Paço da Alcáçova.

By the 16th century, the royal residence moved to a new palace located at Terreiro do Paço. The castle was then used as a prison and later as an army barracks. This reconversion together with the earthquake of 1755 led to the growing degradation of the castle walls.

In the 1940s the walls were renovated and partly recreated by Salazar’s architects. Later, in the 1990s the castle was further restored for the Expo 98 event

The site’s main attractions include:

 The viewpoint and a series of gardens filled with Portuguese forest species, such as cork oak, olive, carob, umbrella pine and fruit trees around the Paço da Alcáçova;

The Castelejo (Upper Castle), built in the 11th century during the Moorish period, corresponding to the castle inner defensive part, strategically located at the top of the hill. It retains eleven towers, a cistern and the Door of Treason, used by secret messengers;

The periscope inside the Ulysses Tower, a giant camera obscura offering a unique real-time 360-degree angle on Lisbon;

The archaeological site (access restricted) uncovering three main periods in the history of Lisbon: the first settlements around the 7th century BC, the Moorish period till the 11th century, and the ruins of the Paço da Alcáçova;

The buildings now housing the Permanent Exhibition and Restaurante Casa do Leão as well as the surrounding area offering some evidence of the former Paço da Alcáçova

IGREJA DE SAO VICENTE DE FORA

Renaissance church, but perhaps even more interesting is the adjoining monastery with its beautiful cloisters and azulejos (tile panels). Located a few walking minutes from the flats, can be also seen and enjoyed from the Tágides apartment (IMAGEM)

FEIRA DA LADRA

It’s called “Thieves Market” for a reason: Lisbon’s main flea market has all sorts of stuff, including touristy items, crafts, clothing, antiques, pottery, and also an area for a car boot style second-hand selling.

The market dates back to 1272, but it was only in 1882 that it settled permanently at Campo de Santa Clara.

The area of the market is vast, and the atmosphere is authentic. Even if you don’t plan on buying, you can spend a few nice hours just browsing.

PANTEAO NACIONAL

With a white dome rising above Alfama, the Panteão Nacional houses the tombs of distinguished Portuguese figures. From the terrace, there are stunning views over the River Tejo and the city.

Originally intended to be a church, works began in the second half of the seventeenth century only to be concluded in the mid twentieth century!

 By then, it was decided that this masterpiece of the Baroque architecture would no longer become the Church Santa Engrácia but the Panteão Nacional, housing the tombs of distinguished Portuguese figures.

Among former Presidents of the Portuguese Republic, the Panteão pays hommage to the Queen of Fado Amália Rodrigues (1920-99) and to the legendary football player Eusébio (1942-2014). 

We recommend a visit to the viewpoint on the 4th floor for stunning views of Alfama and the river.

If it’s Tuesday or Saturday, you’ll have the chance to hunt for some buried treasure in Lisbon’s flea market known as Feira da Ladra (or “Thieves’ Market” in a literal translation).

STREETS OF ALFAMA

Ditch the maps and wander through the medieval streets that run from Rua de São Pedro, Rua de São Miguel and Rua dos Remédios. You are bound to get lost in the maze of narrow streets and alleys, but that’s the fun of it. Don’t worry if you get tired or really get lost – there is always a café, a restaurant or a bus/tram stop just around the corner.

MUSEU DO FADO

The Fado Museum in Lisbon is a must for fans of fado music but also for those that are new to this music genre. A visit to the Museu do Fado gives you an insight into the culture of Lisbon and Portugal, and into the Alfama neighbourhood where the genre was born.

It’s a budget-friendly small scale museum. A visit will probably take one hour to complete, but it’s well worth the time. A headphone is included in the admission price, so that you can listen to the history of fado as shown in the exhibit, from its origins to international recognition. You will also listen to songs by the best fadistas (fado singers) as you visit the museum.

The tour highlights the emotions that a good fadista conveys, perhaps more important than their gifted voice, and introduces several objects related to fado. Of particular interest is the section about Portuguese guitarras (guitars), covering the development of the instrument and some of the luthiers who built them.

The Museu do Fado provides an engaging visit geared mainly for adults interested in getting to know the fado music and its history. It could benefit from more interactive pieces, though. 

The museum has a shop selling fado CDs and books, and some instruments. There’s also a coffee shop.

TRAM 28

Tram 28 is one of the best ways to explore the old city, Lisbon’s historic heritage and typical neighbourhoods.From our flats  (link)in Alfama, all you have to do to take it…is to open the door!

The 28 stop in just in front of the building door. 

The entire route from Martim Moniz to Campo de Ourique / Prazeres takes approximately one hour. Expect to stand during the entire ride because of the many tourists and locals using this little wagon. If you want to avoid the crowds, you can either go early in the morning or in the evening. From our street, the tram climbs to Graça at the top of a hill, where the Igreja São Vicente de Fora is one of the highlights.

The tram goes through the narrow streets of Alfama, uncovering two breathtaking viewpoints: Miradouro das Portas do Sol and Miradouro de Santa Luzia that offer astonishing angles over the red rooftops and the pastel-coloured houses of Alfama. En route to Baixa, catch a glimpse of the Sé, the city’s cathedral combining Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architectural styles.

Tram 28 goes through Rua da Conceição in the Baixa, revealing the Baixa grid, its buildings and streets reconstructed after the great earthquake of 1755. It then climbs the hill towards the Chiado, making a stop opposite the legendary café A Brasileira.

Before its final stop at Prazeres, the tram goes through the Palácio da Assembleia (Parliament building) and the Basílica da Estrela, where you can get off if you want to visit the church, the opposite garden, Jardim da Estrela, and the Estrela district.

Use the Viva Viagem card or buy the ticket on board (more expensive).

The service runs from 5.40am until 9.15pm on weekdays and from 6.45am to 10.30pm on weekends and holidays.

WARNING:Tram 28 runs through many tourist attractions and pickpockets are not unusual. Pay special attention to your belongings

Where to eat and drink around the Alfama apartments, our choices

FEIRA DA LADRA ZONE

Graça 77 (vegetarian. Some vegan options. Interesting decoration) 
https://www.tripadvisor.pt/Restaurant_Review-g189158-d12005271-Reviews-Restaurante_Graca_77-Lisbon_Lisbon_District_Central_Portugal.html

Haweli Palace (indian) 
https://www.tripadvisor.pt/Restaurant_Review-g189158-d713303-Reviews-Haweli_Tandoori-Lisbon_Lisbon_District_Central_Portugal.html

O Piteu (traditional Portuguese cuisine) 
http://www.restauranteopiteu.pt/

CASTLE AND SÉ ZONE

Chapitó (amazing view, it is a circus school besides restaurant, café and terrace)
.https://www.tripadvisor.pt/Attraction_Review-g189158-d195860-Reviews-Chapito-Lisbon_Lisbon_District_Central_Portugal.html

Pois Cafe (austrian owners, very good pastries, interesting decoration)
 http://www.poiscafe.com/

ALFAMA 

Primo Basilico. (Italian pizza  in slices on the go, take away, or eat in a simple space with little tables)
 http://www.primobasilico.com/

 Santo Antonio da Alfama (Portuguese traditional cuisine)
https://www.tripadvisor.pt/Restaurant_Review-g189158-d877256-Reviews-Santo_Antonio_de_Alfama-Lisbon_Lisbon_District_Central_Portugal.html

Casanova (italian pizzeria, very good pizzas. You can eat inside or in their terrace right on the river side, amazing view. Does not accept reservation, so go early, like 12,30 for lunch or 19 for dinner, or you will find huge queues, especially at weekends)

Bica do Sapato (gourmet restaurantt, among the best and the trendiest in town. It's also known for being John Malkovich's restaurant, for its location on the waterfront, and for the sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere)
https://www.tripadvisor.pt/Restaurant_Review-g189158-d781461-Reviews-Bica_do_Sapato-Lisbon_Lisbon_District_Central_Portugal.html

Deli Delux (gourmet café, terrace and shop, amazing view)
https://www.tripadvisor.pt/Restaurant_Review-g189158-d1048084-Reviews-Deli_Delux-Lisbon_Lisbon_District_Central_Portugal.html

Faz Figura (an elegant evening restaurant located above the station, stunning views. Allocate a table in advance especially on weekends. Portuguese dishes and international cuisine).
www.fazfigura.com

GROCERY SHOPPING
NEAR THE ALFAMA APARTMENTS

Around the building, you have plenty of small shops with fresh foods.

Following the tram line to the right, then up the hill, you will reach Graça, where again you have plenty of options of small groceries shops, and also two supermarkets:

In Largo da Graça you can find Minipreço Supermarket, comparable to a discount small supermarket. Walking the Rua da Graça up North for about 5 minutes, you can find on your left side another supermarket called Pingo Doce (it doesn´t look like a supermarket from outside, so check the street number: it is in Rua da Graça no. 100-106). We recommend Pingo Doce, it has a bigger variety of foods than Minipreço.

We also suggest to buy fresh bread (and pastries, if you fancy them) in the  bakery in rua da Graça number 133. They have very good bread!